Moscow, Russia
There’s something about the liminal space Russia occupies as European-but-not-quite. Maybe it’s in the architecture, gold-plated and light in color, but heavy in stature. It’s there, in the spirit of the cities… that something that makes you feel like you’ve fallen into the cracks between two fairy tales and are getting a glimpse of a well-kept secret. Illuminated by fairy lights hanging above snowy streets, the cold of Russian winter is met with the unexpected warmth of her character.
I never would have sought out a 3-week trip to Russia of my own volition, but my curiosity was piqued when my college offered a January term study-abroad program to Russia’s Higher School of Economics. I barely made it off the waitlist, and the split-second decision I made to join the program was definitely, undoubtedly, the right one.
When you set a goal to travel affordably to a fun, enchanting, and easy-to-explore destination, do you ever think “Russia”? I bet you hadn’t. Let me tell you why you should.
On money: in three weeks, I spent a total of $300 USD. I was stingy, and this didn’t include lodging, but Russian hostels are a BLAST and very, very affordable. We *love* the Russian ruble. Drinks and dinner on a nightly basis is actually reasonable. This is one of the reasons Russia is an ideal travel location for young people on a budget; you don’t have to sacrifice fun for the sake of money. You can have a good time without any of the post-travel $$ guilt!
Accommodations:
I recommend the Star Wars hostel in Moscow. It’s clean and accommodating, plus it’s in a great location: walking distance from Red Square, Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, Bol Shoi Theatre, the subway station, and a lot of fun bars and restaurants.
Destinations:
You could fill a whole day (or more) exploring Moscow’s famous city square, Red Square. The square separates the city from the Kremlin, which I had mistakenly believed to be the Russian equivalent of the White House. It’s actually a fortress, containing Putin’s residence, the Armoury (ft. the world’s largest Fabergé Egg collection), and cathedrals spanning centuries. It’s also the location of Lenin’s tomb!
Moscow and St. Petersburg are the Russian tale of two capitals; a bartender at Dead Poet’s Bar in St. Petersburg said “St. Petersburg is the heart of Russia, Moscow is the wallet”. Many of my co-travelers preferred St. Petersburg, the country’s cultural capital, young and plated in gold. St. Petersburg’s quasi-Europeanness retains the intimacy of smaller cities; Moscow had the bustle and grime! Moscow was so saturated in its own history, I felt like I’d made a cultural excursion every time I stepped onto the street.
While inside the Kremlin, I would highly recommend venturing into Assumption Cathedral. You can’t take photos inside, but it boasts an ornate gold and fresco interior with a fascinating history: Napoleon used the cathedral as a horse stable during his invasion of the capital! Get this: in Russian Orthodox churches, there are no seats. In fact, there are really no seats anywhere. Wear comfy walking shoes to museums. Church services are conducted in front of a standing parish, and are anywhere from an hour to three hours long!
I was prohibited from taking photos inside the Armoury Chamber, but it’s a must-see if you make it to the Kremlin. The former Imperial treasury, this world-renowned museum preserves centuries in the precious treasures of past Tsars and the collections of fallen regimes. The most eye-catching parts of the Armoury for me were the ornately decorated hymn books used in royal religious services, or the collection of carriages used by Empress Elisabeth. The hymn books looked as if they contained the secrets of the Universe. I suppose, for some, they did.
I almost didn’t make it to the most intense part of my Moscow experience. I wrote Sanduny Bathhouse off as a luxury, but I am SO GRATEFUL I didn’t pinch the penny. The oldest public bathhouse in Russia is not only incredibly rejuvenating, but a life altering time-warp. You’re granted the authentic, historic Russian bathhouse experience. Firstly, nobody speaks English. Be prepared for that. Also prepare yourself to sweat profusely in a eucalyptus-infused wet steam room with other women, then to dunk your body into a barrel of freezing water. If you’re really splurging, you can pay to get hit with sticks! It’s a whole thing. The Russian spa day. (Actually though, so good for your circulation and seemingly not unpleasant!) Afterwards, you can enjoy light snacks and beer.
Food:
I have but a single request: if you go to Moscow, and especially if you stay in the Star Wars hostel (see above), eat at Khachapuri. Russian cuisine is largely beets, that stereotype is true, but her greatest cuisine is actually the Georgian food! I would have eaten the stuffed eggplant rolls if I’d had my way. Oh, and Khachapuri has endless wine.
For the fast-food delight of Russia, don’t leave before visiting a Теремок (pronounced Teremok). It’s a chain that serves delicious traditional blini, a.k.a. stuffed crepes. Get the strawberry to satisfy a sweet tooth and the mushroom + mashed potato for a savory fix!
Bars:
Head to Propaganda for a restaurant-turned-night-scene, MASSIVE frozen margaritas for 4 USD, and the sweetest waiter on the planet, named Mark. He gave me a Propaganda pin from the bar with a “to you, from me, for memories”. If you see him, give him all of my love. The dancing is okay, the drinks are better.
I didn’t go myself, but a few friends of mine had the time of their lives at Crazy Daisy. It’s a girls-dancing-drinks-drama sort of scene. Maybe the place to hit after indulging at Propoganda, first! Moscow also has a ton of Irish pubs for a familiar feel.
At the end of my week in Moscow, I left for the “heart and soul” of Russia, the cultural capital of St. Petersburg. I missed Moscow as I watched her shrink away through the window of the train, but all I’ve reflected on above reminds me that I didn’t waste a single minute, or a single ruble!
If you make it to Moscow, get the Georgian food. Pay for the full treatment at Sanduny. Give her all of your love, and mine, too.
-Jenna Scout
little bird 